South Island East Coast (FarmVille)

My last trip to these parts was about 2 to 3 decades ago.

The first thought is how everything has shrunk in size in comparison to those childhood memories and secondly between the highlights, you forget about the vast expanse of nothingness filled with hours of eye spy something beginning with f'all's.

First spot we camped was Marfells Beach by Lake Grassmere. A really nice DOC site with plenty of flat yoga space. I've renamed the Siccadas here Techno Beetles given the unique techno-esque chirp the lay down.

Td td td td, tk        ta tk,     tk ta tk.....

Weather has been cracking for a couple of days and have been basking in the sun till a cold front decided to blow in. Spent 2 nights then headed south.

Marfells Beach

The Local Wildlife (Bluebottles)

Most the South Island has been in drought for the last month or so and Marlborough is no exception, with the hills looking like some sci-fi barren luna scape if not for the lush green vineyards that fill the valleys.

Kaikora hasn't seemed to have evolved much in 25 years either. Odd given the amount of money that comes in to the area from the promise of whale watching by air and boat. We stopped to check out the seals in a few places lots of young chirping at each other and playing in the surf, the only country I've driven in with road kill of the seal variety. We met up with Barbara and her friend Greg (Barbaras bikes now in storage) had a cup of tea (the exciting tee total life) and an update on what's been going on these last months.

Kaikora Locals

We camped at Peketa Beach camp ground 7km south of Kaikora. The place is set up and laid out really well. Hoping for an early practice before the 10:00 am check out but it was too cold. Set off and found a picnic area near Cheviot cricket ground and frightened a few natives with our moves. Most folks just don't know what to make of it. Some will take photos, others pretend you're not there and some will even do everything to avoid you (the equivalent of crossing the road to avoid the scary yet flexible psychopath). 

The thing with campsites is you just never know what to expect. They could be free and awesome or overpriced and crap. It's just pot luck really.

Rocked in to Christchurch to check out the earthquake damage and wasn't disappointed. Nearly 4 years on at a guess and there's hardly any rebuild yet. A bit embarrassing for a first world country. Nice park in the middle of town though.

Checked out the street art exhibition at the YMCA. Got a bit homesick for Shoreditch, London. (could use an all night bender with me old mucka Kurt)

Sherren found a camp out of town by a racecourse and DOC nursery. Nice cheap flat spot with early sun which was good for yoga. Even had a Chinese neighbour rocking out his yoga moves to keep us company.

While in the vicinity we drove out to Akaroa and put the car to work on some gnarly hill climbs. Holding up to the challenge we feel more comfortable about what lies ahead. Views were pretty spectacular from up there.

We then continued the journey South to spend the night at a camp by the mouth of the Rangitata River. A popular spot for salmon fishing. The camp looks like a township from a distance as its enormous and what seems to be a large permanent population. Watched an old timer bring in a pretty decent sized salmon too. 

A point to note at this stage is the South Island is famous for sheep. But to date we've seen one flock. Yet we've driven by hundreds of kilometres of industrialised dairy farms. The New Zealand economy is now firmly rooted in the udders of a dairy cow. And that industry has also laid waist to what once was a beautiful countryside. It's not the scenic rustic scape I recall. Everywhere I go I see the mark of man and it doesn't look good. They have enormous watering machinery spraying the fields with gallons of water to grow grass in the cows paddocks to produce milk, I'm sure if I could do the maths it would be a scary equation.

Dare I mention the commercial pine forests?

Lake Tekapo now. Famous for it's lack of light pollution and star watching. Took a walk up Mt John to check out the observatory, then down around the lake. Completely lost the hikers legs now and getting pretty stiff. The lake is an awesome blue colour due to the colour of the local stone sand. Now waiting for the sun to go down to do some star gazing. A little cloudy but hoping that passes.

I stayed up late to check what all the fuss was about but between the sun going down and a 3/4 moon rising, it was just a bit too light. Don't get me wrong! The stars are pretty amazing here but no better than the rest of New Zealand with low light pollution. Awoke at 01:00 and 04:00 after the moon went down just to be certain and think for the ultimate experience you should come on the new moon. 

Apparently without clouds it looks fake!

Yoga Group

It's been over a year since leaving the UK and Sherren and I haven't had more than a couple of hours apart since. And it's not always the Photoshop'ed, Facebook Fantastic you often read about. We have arguments all the time about silly shit as I'm sure most do and sometimes feel like grabbing my pack and heading bush on me jacks.  (Sherren - well piss off then!)

Aoraki - Mt Cook

It's great to see the Maori names making a comeback. Once upon a time this was seen by many European New Zealanders as an attempt for Maori to take back what was stolen and cheated so long ago. And quite frankly that would not do. Good to see attitudes have changed. And you never know, one day the Crown may pull it's finger out it's ass and settle outstanding treaty claims. They've only been in the courts about 40 years!

We set off a bit later today as the clouds moved in and it took a little longer to heat up. Sherren had a rest day and mid standing sequence a German girl came over to chat. I motioned her Sherren's way and carried on. Think she was fishing for a lift out. It was pretty remote and there was only one other person about.

The drive to the mount has some spectacular views over the lake. Wind whipped up too and clouds rolled in. Our first bit of rain in a while which is unfortunate as it would be nice get some better views of Aoraki before we move on but the region could really use it so I won't complain too much.

It really pissed down overnight and we gave yoga a miss in the morning. Wet and cold. We set off for a walk before breakfast and headed to Kea Point. No Kea there unfortunately, in fact this whole island seems to be devoid of native wildlife. Am I the only one noticing? Aside from that the views of Sefton were pretty good even though the cloud was low and every now and then you could hear a huge chunk of glacial ice crack off and crash down the valley. Then we set off toward Aoraki. It was a decent hour and a half journey to the glacial lake with 3 cool suspension bridge crossings. And every corner we turn the clouds dispersed a little more until you could see the mountain in all its glory.

I had a crazy notion to swim out to one of the icebergs in the lake for a photo but after immersing my hand there was no way I was getting in. Easily some of the coldest waters I've encountered.

Once we'd had our fill of sights we headed back to the car for breakfast at 13:30 then moved on to the next destination. Lake Benmore.

Little Burg

Aoraki

Not had any run ins with South Island sand flies yet but we're carrying stock for when we hit the west coast.

Too cold for yoga again this morning, so we headed off at the 10:00 checkout hoping to find a sunny spot on the way but it was not to be as the clouds came rolling in. 

Oamaru. Is one of those towns where folks go to die. Endless rows of nursing homes, care homes etc. Then filled up with gas and got blanked by the attendant and counter staff. Would have got better service at the self service pump. Won't stop here again. Paid the iSite a visit and found out you have to pay to see the blue penguins (they're in an enclosure). We don't pay to see animals in enclosures, that's a farm.

On to Moeraki. They got boulders! And a nice little village with a walk round the rocks and a restaurant that seems to be fully booked out days in advance. We stopped for tea and overheard some folks trying to get in.

Boulders

Moeraki Locals

Now in Trotters Gorge at our camp. Did a bush walk that takes you up to the top of a ridge for some stunning views. Had a conversation with a Fantail on the way back and even managed to get a photo. Not easy considering how excitable these little fellas are.

This is a popular little camp and the first camp we've been to where most folks are not trying to skip out on paying the fees. Something we've seen at every camp to date. And it's usually the Germans. Took me by surprise as I know a lot of German people and they're extremely honest and honourable people. But their younger generation are not at all. We even met one German girl who was not paying fees and was hoping to get a job with DOC managing a campsite (collecting fees). The cheek. And the fact that most these sites only charge $6 per night for an adult only goes to prove what cheapskate scum they are.

A Friendly Fantail

Trotters Hut

Otago. This is the first place we've actually encountered nature in the South Island. Starting to see native forests and the bird life that goes with it.

Took a stroll up to a hut in the morning then did yoga on the grass with the sun lasting till we left in the afternoon. Heading south through Trotters Gorge a thick sea fog rolled in for an awesome whiteout on roads that have been destroyed by logging trucks. Makes for a fun drive.

Drove in to Dunedin later in the afternoon and man did our transmission get a workout. Forgot how hilly this place is. Easily one of the prettiest cities in New Zealand though. Took an aimless drive round then headed up to see my uncle and aunt, Ralph and Linda.

Has been fantastic to catch up with them after so long and got loads of tips on where to go and stay in Otago and Southland.

Ralph also treated us to a bit of foraging and his gourmet cooking. A fantastic effort to cater for these fussy vegans.

Hope to get back to these part for another visit soon. 

Next stop The Catlins, then on to Stewart Island........

The Will to Blog

Seems it's been 2 months since our last blog. Although the world keeps turning, I've not had a great deal to say on the matter (can you believe it). But for our own account if not anything else. It went a little something like this.......

Trail Notes - Taranaki

Sherren called it Mt Teryaki and now it's kind of stuck.

Had a few beers and wines with Mark and Helen last night. So once we started out from Egmont North visitor centre in the heat of the day, the boozy sweats kicked in. Cracking views of the peak and Ruapehu on the way up. We've actually struck it pretty lucky with the mountains and weather. (Might be commenting too soon)

Track is well maintained and it was an easy 3 hours to Holly Hut. A big and well equipped hut, with solar power and a brand new drop of fire wood and coal. Only issue was the worlds bluntest axe made cutting kindling a mission and ended up getting my trusted machete out to finish the job. 

It's about 26 degrees outside so hoping the fire won't be needed but you never know when you're sitting at about 1000 meters above sea level at the base of a snow covered mountain.

It's 4 o'clock and I'm bored out of my skull now the chores are done. Got a 8-9 hour walk tomorrow over 13km. Slow going but should keep me occupied and out of mischief for a while longer.

This is a serviced hut so wondering if we'll get a ranger later. Monday's are normally their changeover days.

Just spotted 2-3 ferrets or stoats playing in the grass in front the hut. Light brown and they chirp at each other. Hundreds of traps out here but guessing they're not effective. Guess we won't be seeing any Kiwi with those nasties around.

Sherren, today was like 3 hours on a stairclimber with a view, then down to the hut, in the knowledge that tomorrow we will walk back up. It's a sunny evening and so far we are alone but for the flies which are being herded out of the hut. I'm remembering the river journey and it's easy leg work as my legs ache a little already.

The sun didn't rise until 5.30 we set off at 7 for Waiaua Gorge Hut, a 8h30 walk. Two rocky wide stream crossings later I had soaking feet, we arrived at the half way point Kahui Hut were there is a weather station and mobile signal, on checking the forecast tomorrow will bring 90% chance of rain all day and between 60 and 100kmh winds making it cold with much the same for the day after. As what we have left will take two days we decided to turn around as we'll be either crossing rivers or in exposed alpine areas. So we have walked for 8 hours to be back where we started this morning wet footed. Tomorrow we will do the 3h30 trip down to the visitor centre and the car.

Disappointed but better to be safe.

Still great weather today and good mountain views.

Dry feet for me today. I rock hop like a mountain goat.

Stony River was pretty low when we first crossed it. But coming back it had raised a few inches. The heat of the last two days is melting the snow up top. Wouldn't like to be around when it rains hard. 20mm up top and I reckon you wouldn't be able to pass. 

Met a couple folks who think they're going to the summit tomorrow. I warned them about the 100km winds with a windchill of -10. I think they still think they're going. Good luck to them. Nice place to perish if you had to choose one.

Tired now. Our return trip today should have been 11 hours, we did it in 8 and even stopped for lunch.

Think we'll head back to Tauranga for Christmas next and take a week getting ready for our yoga workshop in Gisborne. Long range forecast is shit. Tired of it and feel like I'm wasting all my time and money with this 2 Year holiday. Feel like going back to work or else would happily jump on a plane back to India tomorrow and spend the next 2 years there.

Holly Hut

Return of The Yogi

With Christmas done and dusted for another year, the sun finally decided to make an appearance. And with that we headed down to Gisborne and give ourselves a day to settle in before the workshop.

Cory and Sarah provided us with an awesome garden studio apartment in the plush suburb of Awapuni, Gisborne.

 

Paying the Rent

Peter Sanson

Having researched as much as possible about Peter, we knew very little of him. It's just the way all genuine yoga gurus tend to be. Off the grid or at the very least, almost.

From the moment we walked into his shala you could feel the awesome energy and heat, reminiscent of Mysore. Sometimes the heat almost being too much to bare and very reminiscent when you realise the girl practicing next to you in Gizzy is the same girl practicing next to you in India! 

The group was fairly social and met a few times for pot luck lunches etc. But given our experience of yogi's in Mysore, we were a little wary to begin with. But in time came to know a few very genuine and kind friends.

With the waistline having yo yo'd a few times due to international season changes, excess calorie demands of the hikers diet and the Christmas, New Years experience. It was great to back in the midst of a shala practice. It's now got us back on the track we'd started straying from and helped in sweating out all those impurities we've been piling in.

At the end of the Gisborne summer workshop, we didn't really feel the vibe for hiking again. So we decided to head to Napier to study with Peter for another month. Hands down the finest teacher I've practiced with to date. Although Peter will tell you it's not a competition. 

Firstly we headed up the East Cape for a couple of days to Te Araroa (not on the trail or even close) and camped. It's a pretty remote part of New Zealand with a very rustic way of living for the locals and with horses roaming in the middle of the road and homicidal truck drivers made an interesting drive.

East Cape

Napier

The Art Deco capital of the world (self imposed title I reckon) owing to a complete rebuild after the town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931. A cute little place about double the size of Gisborne, and they even have an organic whole foods cafe and market with reasonable prices and vegan options. Progressive New Zealand at it's finest.

We stayed at Toad Hall Backpackers on a weekly rate which was more attractive than living at a campsite which was our original plan. And overall the place was fine although, after our first Saturday we were seriously questioning our decision. Just picture a party going till dawn with a man 55 or so, off his head on booze and drugs, overweight with porn star moustache running up and down the corridor screaming the lyrics to a Metallica song. While a couple in the room next door were having porn star horizontal hula hula complete with slapping and screaming. To make matters worse it was the male that did most the screaming. Living the midlife dream I guess!

After that things chilled out and life was fairly normal and bland again. At least till it was time to move on just as the Art Deco Weekend began and town filled up with people of every demographic wearing nylons, furs, waistcoats, hats and driving round in chitty chitty bang bang cars and steam engines. Escapism on a grand scale. Get me the hell out of here!

Pania ❤️

Now some of that summer heat is beginning to fade, we are camping on the western edge of the Tararua ranges. Had a great practice on the grass this morning but fear we have since frightened off all other campers with our off key chanting and sun worshipping ritual. Seriously, the place has emptied out. Followed by the sun. 

Chef!

The 'mish' today was to find a newly opened vegan cafe and market in Greytown (of all places - hypothesis is this could be owned and run by wealthy cattle farmers hell bent on covering all aspects of the market) while on our way to the next camp. Mission failed. It's a small 3 horse town. We drove through, parked and walked up and down without success. Facebook rumour false! Nothing but cattle farms around here. Wishful thinking methinks.

Our next camp involved driving south on the western shores of Lake Wairarapa until we hit the coast. Then follow a poorly graded loose metal road through a couple of streams, till the road ends. (Now a point to note at this stage is, the more remote and rugged we get the happier I get. However on Sherren, it has the opposite effect. One of them 'Mars and Venus things I reckon) And wallah! Shithole DOC camp Corner Creek.

None of the sites are level (literally not even flat space enough to yoga), water tank is dry and so is the nearest stream, they have rats and the toilets are pretty grim. In fact it's obvious DOC haven't serviced the place as the fee spout (place where you put your camp fees in) is overflowing with money. Really surprised no ones actually nicked it. It's a good thing we brought plenty of water. Plan was to stay 2 nights but think we'll upgrade in the morning.

It a shame really as the scenery is rugged and beautiful, and even though there is zero swell there's some decent waves coming in at the point and this place is only about 25km as the crow flies from Wellington city (100km by road)

Know Your Gear!

And that includes your car! Since we bought this car, we've been driving around with a light on that says 'OD Off'. So we assumed the overdrive function was off. But we've been a bit thirsty on gas and a bit chunky in the transmission. So we decided to have a play, only to discover, Japanese logic dictates. "If the Off button is On, that means the function is On".

Now we're getting an extra 200km a tank and the gears are smooth as. Next we gotta figure out the 4wd function. Wasn't needed when fording those streams.

Wellington. The capital city, we didn't see any of it on the way to the ferry but will stop on the way back. Petrol here is 20% more expensive than the rest of the North Island. Last stop to get ripped off before the South Island!

Yoga got rained off yesterday. Had an awesome spot on the grass at our campsite. Shame about the weather. I made it to Janu B and Sherren to Mary A.

Today's effort was on the Interislander Ferry to Picton. We found a little spot out the way of the crowds. Felt a little strange with the constant rocking and moving of the centre of gravity but managed to keep it together in Utthita Hasta and Headstand. Probably not the strangest location to practice as we are yet to give it a go in an aeroplane but it does turn some heads.

Gripe of the North before we leave is:

Apparently 2/3's of New Zealand's waterways are not fit for swimming and even more not for drinking. Not so clean and green after all. Toxins are mostly made up of nitrates and effluent from the farming industry. 

In A Round About Way - Taurmarunui/Tongariro/Whanganui

Today we completed the alpine crossing past lakes craters and over the highest point of red crater at 1750m. We had amazing weather with a clear view of mount Taranaki over the top of distant cloud some 137km away.

It was a wise choice doing the TA SOBO for this section as we were pretty much alone until reaching the blue lake. And then we struck the TB hikers (tourist bus). There must have been 2000 of them up there. Welcome to New Zealand's great walks. But then once we passed Red Crater we were alone again. 

We are staying tonight at Mangatepopo hut in the tent, testing our gear in our first night of expected temperatures of -2.

I'd seriously recommend everyone stay a night at this hut in the hope they get to meet Boyd the DOC ranger. An awesome, down to earth and extremely knowledgeable bloke you could talk to for hours. 

We've met two groups of TA walkers who have done the 42 traverse and Cokers track, their descriptions do not appeal so we think we will have a bit more of a walk around here over the next couple of days then off to canoe the Wanganui.

It was pretty warm in the tent but left before the dew point lifted and had to pack away a wet tent.

Today is overcast but the wind and rain is holding out.

We were warned about the worn track to come but were surprised at how easy it was to walk and despite the weather deteriorating were treated to some beautiful views of Ruapehu.

Having decided against the 42 Traverse we opted to head for Whakapapaiti Hut. It's a lovely walk up to this hut and we even ran into Jack Hikes on the way (with matching shoes and poles) and had a good chat about all our TA experiences and what add on trails we may do.

Now we are at Whakapapaiti with another 5 walkers, a party of 4 dairy famers, one of whom was a guide on the Whanganui river - how's that for luck, he recommends Taumarunui to Pipiriki in 5 days. and a very quiet male reading his book. (At last nights hut there was a master butcher).

We have very wet boots from a water crossing we have to do again in the morning so little point trying to get them dry tonight.

My face is really sun burnt from yesterday's snow and cloud burn today. Must remember to bust out the hat. Skin like a roast chicken.

It's amazing what a night of light rain does to a stream up here. Last night we crossed the Whakapapaiti at mid shin and this morning it was at the top of my thighs. A pretty wet walk out to Mangahuia campsite, then we hit SH47 in a bid to get a hitch to Turangi. 2 hours later and a whole lotta cars and empty tour vans, we were resigned to the fact we may have to spend the night on the side of the road and walk the whole 40 something km's to Turangi. Just then Chris who owns a motel in Turangi stopped on his way back from fly fishing. It's always the locals.

Back in Taumarunui now. Setting off down the river in the morning for 5 days. The weather report has gone from a week of good weather to a week of shitty rain. Oh well, at least we got it good crossing the Tongariro. 

Day one of the Whanganui, we had a short briefing and some sketches of where to aim for entering a rapid... The point of the V. Then onto the water... We arrived at our campsite at 4pm. The Rapids were kind we stayed afloat plenty of shouts of 'left a bit' 'right' no profanities though and some beautiful scenery, from high rock to bush and of course fields of sheep. As for the V not sure we got it right all that often.  We stopped once at Lavender Farm, quintessentially English garden of rows of Lavender with a cafe and garden tables, smelt amazing had a fresh orange and a beer (well we are on holiday after all). I have offered to have the back seat, which is the steering seat tomorrow... Don't think I will be allowed ;-).

Glen - pretty sure Sherren and I are not compatible canoeists and would much rather have had a kayak. They're much less cumbersome and leave you free to explore more.

Got stung by a bee when putting up the tent. First one in 31 years. They still hurt! Then copped about 15 mozzie bites overnight. Nothing on those far north mozzies though. 

Nice camp at Poukaria. DOC need to get their shit sorted though as the water pump is 'ucked. After all this is a great walk camp and we're paying a decent fee for the privilege.

There are also possums that are in no way weary of humans. I'd say they are being fed by other campers. They're so cute aren't they???

But again being a great walk, it would be nice to see a few more native birds if the possums weren't around to eat their eggs.

Some prick pissed all over the toilet seat this morning. Only 9 of us here last night. Some folks are just plain 'unts!

Got sunk today. Got the right v into the rapids but was slightly off line and got pinned to a rock. Handled it well but after 2 minutes of effort and not getting off, decided it would be easier to get out, let it swamp and then get to shore. No drama, we bailed out and were on our merry way. 

At Whakahoro now. Rubbish left strewn, toothpaste spit left through the sinks, benches covered in food waste. There's a pig here which probably encourages leaving rubbish and it's way too friendly when you're trying to cook. People are (gr)'unts!!!

Some of these great walk facilities are  pretty shitty. Prefer the back country facilities. They have a more courteous clientele too! Although they have got wheelchair access to the hut and long-drop here. Progressive!

Sherren, we saw lots of ducks and a bird of prey ... Not sure what maybe a hawk.

The sinking was thankfully slow and almost planned, or we would still be against the rock now! we were told that upside down your canoe is easier to get ashore however ours wouldn't turn over just went under.  I sat in it and paddled with water to my armpits. It drizzled most of the rest of the way to camp so we would have got wet regardless.

Thankfully all the stuff in the barrels stayed dry.

We should be in a tent tonight, but there's a bunkhouse and its empty at the moment so we are chancing our arm hopefully we won't get turfed out, clothes hanging to dry.

New Zealand weather sucks!

Absolutely teeming down today so rowed like there's no tomorrow and turned an 8 hour, 37km row into a 5 hour slog. Stopped at all the camps on the way to use facilities before getting to John Coull Camp. The camps out here are lacking for the money you pay. Would rather they up the fees and have a decent shelter put in.  John Coull camp had 56 people at it last night and there's 1 table and shelter to share. The hut is ok but fits 24 in the bunkroom and again has only 1 table, 1 sink and 4 gas rings at $32 per night per person. We upgraded as the camp is so wet we'd rather not.

The rapids were fun today. Not as rough as the last two days but had some narrow fast ones where you get quite close to the rocks. The river is starting to rise now so will be interesting to see what tomorrow brings.

Sherren, early this morning although drizzling the water was like a mill pond and the rocks and reflections beautiful, saw lots of kingfishers today. My first "woohoo" going through a rapid today, it was fast and narrow skimming the cliffs.  My stomach muscles hurt this morning and my arms ached as soon as I started to paddle, I think my technique has improved and I should have the hang of it by day 5!

Glen has been eaten alive by mozzies and I've remained relatively unscathed. Although my legs are once again covered in bruises, from wedging myself in.

With all the rain we had, the river rose at least 2 meters over night. We had to reposition our canoes twice to ensure they didn't end up in the Whanganui estuary.

We set off after an early rise but slow start, figuring it would be a pretty quick and easy row. Well it was quick, measuring 8kph at a standstill and 15kph while paddling on the gps. However it was no easy feat, as the eddies were now pretty huge and were throwing us around with all that extra water making hard work of steering.

As the day passed logs got bigger and we even saw a couple of dead goats flowing down stream.

We stopped at the bridge to nowhere track and had a chat for a bit with a German couple and in the space of 30 minutes saw the river rise another half meter.

Not long after that we pulled into Tieke Kainga and were greeted by Petuere, an interesting and knowledgeable Maori chap, well versed in history and mythology.

In the space of a couple more hours we noticed the river had risen a couple more meters and washed away the opposite neighbours canoes and was even threatening their quad. Will be interesting to see what the river levels actually get to on www.horizon.co.nz. 

Sherren, when I shut my eyes I'm going up and down on the waves!

The mighty Whanganui dropped a couple of meters over night and after bidding farewell to Petuere we set off looking for the 50/50 rapid. The trip was pretty swift again and we came upon some big waves in the rapids but alas there was too much water flowing and the 50/50 was not to be (this is the success rate).

When we got into Pipiriki, there was a jet boat heading out to save the gear of a couple of other TA hikers who spilled and lost their laden canoe.

All in all. Fantastic service from Taumarunui Canoe Hire. Would recommend this outfit over all others.

Sherren loved the whole experience and although I still enjoyed myself, I still prefer the bush a whole lot more.

Not sure where to go next? Will check the dreaded weather and decide.

Back in Taurmarunui camping ground tonight. Really welcoming hosts and a great place to hang out. Have run into Paul from Russell Forrest again and a few other TA hikers. A few stories of the tough terrain floating about but thus far everyone we've met has skipped the Waitomo to Te Kuiti section. Will be keen to hear from anyone else out there who has done that section recently.

Decided to divert to Taranaki tomorrow. Will aim to walk around the mountain before Christmas and will then hit the Tararuas in the new year at some point.