Monday, 10 March 2014

A Cooking Lesson, Yoga, The Weather and a Rant From Glen!

Sherren

Anu’s cooking lesson

We have saved a little of our weekly budget and as a treat and as we went to Anu’s Kitchen for a cooking lesson on Saturday, odd that on International Women’s day we go for a cooking lesson!  Anu has a restaurant on the rooftop of her house and cooks daily lunches for visitors, mainly yoga students.  There were at least 20 people there, all nice but in their own worlds and despite trying lots of friendly smiles not particularly easily engaged with …. Perhaps it’s us!
We learnt how to cook Okra two ways – stuffed (personally I think life’s to short to stuff Okra) and dry cooked with spices.  Beans and greens, and a scrummy salad of sprouted mung beans, carrot, fresh coconut, coriander, pomegranate, grapes, and lime with a dressing that was heated spices and lentils (see below).


Now here’s something everyone should try, this was a revelation to me.  Next time you want to spice up your salad, heat some oil (we used coconut) throw in some whole mustard seeds when they start to pop, add one whole green chilly [pierced to stop it exploding (don’t eat it, unless you really want to)] some fresh curry leaves (if you don’t have any don’t bother)  get some dried yellow lentils bung them and then gently fry / toast them in the hot frying pan until the lentils go golden and they will be just soft enough to crunch with a nuttiness and toss this through your salad.  If push came to shove I’d just do it with the lentils and maybe some seeds too! It was amazing and really easy.  And another thing … I didn’t know you don’t have to cook yellow lentils, just soak them and put them in salad like that too!
We ate until we nearly popped and then walked home …. Fantastic food and lovely not to have any Ghee!
Later a Monkey stole our packet of Lentils - from the kitchen, it must agree!

 Yoga

Friday we finished our two weeks with Jai at Mystic, and Monday we move to the Institute.  I feel as though my practice has smoothed out, and I am better able to flow with my breath, my lazy glutes have caused my knees to be sore and a very tight ITB and TFL so at the moment I cant get half lotus on my left side, lots of rollering (thank goodness we found room in the suitcase for the foam roller!) and asana modifications.  I have been told many times by professionals and family to get my arse in gear (probably for different reasons) and better late than never am now starting my butterflies and flutter legs, sounds pretty – looks ungainly but hopefully will help.
Registration at KPJAYI was fun?? we went Friday had to wait until the allotted time being held outside the gates until 4pm, we were then pointed up the stairs to the front door.  The building looks like a grand house from the outside but once inside you step into a small waiting area/lobby with some rather grand wooden double doors which were open and lead into the practice room. This room reminds me of my infant school assembly hall (yes I can remember that far back! And we sat cross-legged there too) it was surprisingly small, with a small stage, there were about 5 people practicing with Saraswathi.  We were pointed to the far corner and tiptoed barefoot around the outside of the room, hugging the walls catching a glimpse of Sharath sat in a rather grand looking office, we went into a very small room which doubled as an office and shop, there were people tripping over each other to buy rather overpriced KPJAYI logo’d yoga things.  There was no cuing or order so after realising waiting was getting us nowhere we just piped up and registered.  After parting with our pennies we were given our cards and a practice time of 6.30 (shala time) mon – fri at Saraswathi’s shala and a led practice time of 6.15 (shala time) Sat in the main shala, Sunday remains our holiday.  There was no interest in who our teacher is, how long we have practiced or if we knew the sequence ….. lets hope they have no assumptions ….. so we wait for Monday morning and will set the alarm super early to leave the apartment in plenty of time at 5.30 ! OMG!
Shala time, well I am told that the clock in the shala used to be 15 minutes fast however over the last year has gained another 5 minutes putting it 20 minutes fast.  Not sure if this is just to make people arrive on time or if they just cant reach the clock to put in a new battery … I haven’t seen the clock yet.
Well Mondays here!  A march to the shala in darkness at 5.30am, this is when we see people out for the daily run or walk and its surprisingly busy, the coconut man is getting ready!  There was no bustle when we arrive at the shala and without the sign you would think you were in the wrong place. We went up the outside steps and through a squeaky door straight into the practice room (actually every door squeaked), we are pointed at the changing rooms and then lay our mats out in a space, there’s quite a lot of space and we are a little early.  I whisper my opening chant and get on with it.  Standing sequence going well and through to the seated series,  I am putting my legs into half lotus …. the left knee has had a weeks rest, today is its test.  Once I get to Marichyasana Saraswathi comes to find out how far I practice and I tell her I cant bind by myself in D, at which point she plonks herself on my mat whilst I work through B and C (she literally is sat where I would quite like to practice! J ).  Now my first side is my worst side so this is tight but she sits on me and with all the might of a 72 year old 5ft nothing lady who has the strength of an Ox squidges me round and I bind on both sides, I thought maybe I’d be stopped here but I am allowed to go on and get some great assists in Supta Kurmasana and Bandasana and get stopped before starting Upavista Konasana. Time for back-bending and finishing sequence which go without note other than its meant to be done in another little room (a bedroom with a huge bed and a tele) which I don’t realise until I see that Glen has gone somewhere and quickly join him! First coconut consumed in celebration (20p), in fact my first fresh coconut – who’d have thought the flesh would be soft and slimy. In fact I might keep a list of firsts – I’m sure there will be many!



Weather

We have had some amazing pre-monsoon storms this week, arriving at around 6.30 pm with lots of rain and thunder and lightening, washing all the sandy mud into the roads, everything is dry by the morning and I just hope they stay an evening occurrence.  The rains are early which means that the mangoes will be too … the countdown to mango madness begins!

Glen

3 Weeks in The Tropics and He's Already Ranting Like Colonel Water E. Kurtz.

“I think human consciousness, is a tragic misstep in evolution. We became too self-aware, nature created an aspect of nature separate from itself, we are creatures that should not exist by natural law. We are things that labor under the illusion of having a self; an accretion of sensory, experience and feeling, programmed with total assurance that we are each somebody, when in fact everybody is nobody. Maybe the honorable thing for our species to do is deny our programming, stop reproducing, walk hand in hand into extinction, one last midnight, brothers and sisters opting out of a raw deal”. Rust Cohle: Characterized by Matthew McConaughey in True Detective.

Not being particularly interested in anthropology, given that we the only remaining species of hominids (a branch of great apes characterized by erect posture, bipedal locomotion, manual dexterity, sociality, tool use and general trend toward larger and more complex brains) have a tendency since becoming self aware to do everything in our power to discriminate against and destroy our fellow human kind in the name of greed and god(s). I don’t subscribe to or care about our worldly cultural or religious differences. In my eyes they only serve as tools for a means of this control and destruction.

However, just like everyone else. When I visit a foreign land, I leave my opinion or moral code at the door and go with the flow in the name of an easy life and peaceful death. Arriving in India, we had half an idea what to expect and the rest we just figured we’d pick up along the way.

Etiquette - I guess in a way it’s like a trip back in time.

Public appearance is a big thing here. The way you dress and the way you conduct yourself in public is as important as the day is long. A few observations thus far have been.

Dress code:
Women should not show their shoulders or legs in public. Apparently bare shoulders are sexual and legs probably are too. It’s hard to imagine English culture of the past being like this, as it was. In a day and age where Lady GaGa and Miley Cyrus are role models for young girls and gangster rappers for boys preaching b***hes this and n***ers that. Children learn about sex by watching porn on the internet and grow up wanting to be ‘Glamor Models’(That’s a polite way of saying porn star for those of you who don’t know). It’s hard to tell which culture is the most progressive. If anything we are certainly desensitised to the sexual nature of shoulders and ankles.
Men should wear full length trousers and a collared shirt representative of your social status. Although westerners generally get off a lightly, I’ve drawn a few funny looks wearing my board shorts out and about every day. Shorts being the apparel of the lower castes.

Men and woman don’t hold hands or kiss in public. These acts are considered a part of the sexual experience and are confined to the bedroom. However it is Ok for men to hold hands with each other so long as they’re not gay. That is still illegal.

Table etiquette consists of eating with your hand. More specifically your right hand. Your left hand is for wiping your bum and never the two shall meet (if only they new). Pass and receive with your right hand only and don’t point at anyone with the poo-y hand.

The Caste System at A Glance

Post world war 2 British soldiers returned home only to find they were expected to fall back in to the class from which they were emancipated (thanks to the rise of Nazi Germany) and head back down the mines.
Having experienced the freedoms of war (a strange term I know), a superior diet to that which they could afford back home and having served along side their US counterparts and seen first hand the wealth and freedoms they possessed. It was time to say no more and a new Britain was born.
Now I’m not saying that system is gone, it never will go. We’re pack animals and it’s part of our nature to be part of a gang. And so we group ourselves into the haves and the have not’s and do our damnedest to keep the wolves at bay. But at least it’s possible to own your own home now along with all the other ridiculous consumerisms we’ve subscribed to, and if you do manage to rise to the top of the social ladder through no effort but your own, then you’ll be accepted for it.

Coming from a former colony like New Zealand, Australia, Canada and the USA, we don’t subscribe to the class system in the same sense. It’s half the reason our families left (or were shipped out in chains) in the first place. To make a better life without the oppression of the ruling classes to stop you.

In India, Caste is commonly thought of as an ancient fact of Indian life, but various contemporary scholars have argued that the caste system was constructed by the British colonial regime. If this is in fact the case then it seems strange that this of all systems has been the one most rigidly held on to in 67 years of independence. In contradiction to this is the Hindu belief that the only way to scale the caste ladder is by death and reincarnation. Therefore one is expected to accept their birth caste as fate and wait it out till the next life in hope of a better hand.

Daily Life

We’ve settled into daily life now with a fairly rigid routine of wake, yoga, eat, shower, rest, chanting practice (to come), eat, daily walk and grocery shopping, strength exercise, stretch, meditate and bed.

It’s a bit like being back home only without the 12 hour travel/work grind. The number one question we seem to ask is “what day is it”? I imagine that question will evolve to which month is it before long.

Still trying to get some yoga match fitness together and find I alternate between a strong practice and a weak, tired practice each day. I’m currently supplementing the yoga with a daily workout aimed at increasing bodyweight strength ratio in a bid to undo the damage I self inflict during the winter months:

60 Press Ups (wide for chest – I do enough triceps with Chaturanga)
60 Squats (body weight)
60 Dips (off chairs)
120 Sit Ups
6 Chin Ups (of the wardrobe)
5 Hand Stands (20 seconds each) – These should be Hand Stand Push Ups but my shoulders aren’t strong enough at the moment. (was doing 30 of these last summer)

I do these in sets of 5 and will be doubling the reps at the beginning  of next week.

The Mega Concrete Block Truck


Friday, 28 February 2014

Festival of Maha Shivratri

Blog number one - by Sherren!

I am not sure that I can write with as much finesse as Glen, he has set the bar high, but I'm going to subject you to my ramblings and see if the viewing figures drop, according to the stats Glen has captured the interest of one person in the UAE and five in Nigeria.


Festival of Maha Shivaratri



I'm going to wow you all with a video of the small procession coming past the apartment this morning, reading of puranas and offerings of Bhiksha or Alms in celebration of Maha Shivaratri. (produced by Glen Scott).






Yoga Practice

We are here for the yoga so that's where I will start.  Although I've been going to yoga classes for some years, I have only really been practicing Ashtanga for the last 10 months or so, dipping my feet into the waters of lots of different classes before then.  
I have always been the sort to throw myself head first into things, some times successfully and sometimes not ... Thinking of the UrHu in mums loft.  If you are going to throw yourself into Ashtanga Yoga Mysore has to be the place to visit!  So I find myself here thanks to the like minded man I share my life with :-)
Breaking ourselves into the practice at the main shala we have begun at Mystic Yoga with a quiet teacher called Jai Prakash and a very civilised practice start time of 7.30am.  I was massively anxious the night before class so much so that I didn't sleep finding Glen in the same boat, we slept in, going instead the following morning. We started at the front of class fearful of forgetting the order of the asanas.  Some 6 practices on we find ourselves at the back of class, myself being squished to bind in Supta Kurmasana and being told to ease off with my struggle in Marachyasana D and just twist and breath. We aren't stopped but allowed to continue the primary series to the end, I know that will be different when we get to the main shala. The group is small so far between 3 and 8 so we receive lots of attention.
I like the formality and the strict nature of the practice, I like that it is making me physically and mentally stronger, that I can see progress and feel graceful (mostly) I've learnt that it doesn't matter if I look graceful or not.


Pop Up Shops

I was hoping to have a photograph or two to help convey the colourful addition these make to the streets of Mysore however the festival and fasting has kept these away for the last two days, i will do my best to describe them.
The mornings are started with familiar cries of “eeyyhiii” as the rag and bone man comes up the road with his two wheel variety, overtaken by the chap on the Enfield motorbike chucking newspapers over people gates.
They then start appearing at the roadside, they have either 4 wheels (taken from an old large bicycle) or two wheels (taken from a penny farthing), size doesn't matter so much other than they all need to be matching.  The two wheeled are more mobile and are pushed along the roads.  
Although in Surrey we would call them ‘pop up shops’ here they are best described as carts.
There are coconut ones, fruit and veg ones, ones mounted with popcorn makers, others mounted with giant cogs and wringers for making sugar cane juice, mini doughnut making thingies and roadside takeaways cooking curries and doss’s.  
Then yesterday we spied every busy mothers dream, a two wheeled one mounted with a fire heated hearth and heavy flat bottomed round cast iron clothes press, complete with Auntie doing peoples ironing, i am sure this would take off in Surrey! 


The wildlife has surprised me .... MONKEY!

We have seen fat cows, emaciated cows, a healthy horse and two emaciated horses.
Fat shiny feathered chickens, chicks and cockerels, big goats, little goats and nanny goats. 
Manky dogs, skinny dogs, flourishing dogs. 
Playful chipmunks and a variety of birds. 
Massive bats and a Rhesus monkey hanging right outside our window. 
Ironically looking in through the bars with amusement at our surprised faces. 
For all those creatures we have seen a person who find themselves in the same situation. 
I would consider that we are perhaps the chipmunks.

Thursday, 27 February 2014

Spare a Though for Food! Or is it Food for Thought?

Food!

It’s probably the first thing you’ll think of when you head abroad (and yes beer is food). Where are we going to get it? How much will it cost? How much will we get and how are we going to store it? After all, we usually eat three meals a day.

Big issue number 1. We’ve both been sticking to a strict plant based diet since October 2013. Sherren much longer. For the folks out there who still think fish, eggs, milk and cheese grow on trees. We don’t eat that either (“Where do you get your vitamins from then?” was one comment I had to endure courteous of John McCarthy). So what is actually in the meals we are buying out? India may have the highest proportion of vegetarians per capita in the world but they have an undying love affair with ghee (clarified butter) and do they add milk or eggs? You can always ask but you’ll probably be met with a stare like you just shown your best card trick to a dog (You’ll get that stare everywhere else in the world too). We may have to just bite the bullet and pretend it’s not in there.

Big issue number 2. For the last four years, I’ve primarily been eating a whole foods high protein diet. I learnt the hard way you don’t get one of these (See Fig 1.0.0) sinking 6 pints a day and eating GBK 8 times a week.

 
Fig 1.0.0 (Disclaimer: I never look like this through the winter months)

Even though I’ve given up meat and dairy and ultimately had to reintroduce those once thought evil carbohydrates, I’ve stuck to my guns when it comes to eliminating the refined carbohydrates, high GI foods and pretty much all processed foods. The one weakness, especially in the winter months is booze. And eating out, no matter where you are in the world it will usually consist of all of those ingredients.

Big issue number 3. This is India. They eat a lot of curry. I love curry. I eat it at home. And when I do………………… I fart! How the hell are we going to attempt to bind in the Marichyasana poses with a belly full of gas?

Eating Out

We arrived at our apartment (Urban Oasis) at 14:00 on a Tuesday. Despite being utterly exhausted from the trek. We opted against going straight to bed (better to wait and sync yourself to the local clock) and proceeded to unpack then dig out the notes on the local restaurant scene.
One eatery most yogi’s seem to frequent is Tina’s on Gokulam Rd. This one seemed perfect as it was only 5 minutes walk away.
It’s a small establishment will about 8 tables of varying size. Self service, as in, you go to the counter yourself, tell them what you want from the small selection displayed on the counter top, take a seat and when it’s ready, they’ll ring a bell and you go pick it up. We reckon we can order, eat and settle the bill within 10 minutes. So if you’re in a hurry it’s perfect and to top things off the food is lovely.
When ordering at a restaurant for the first time, one concern is always, how big are the portions and how much should you order? This time and probably the only time, we got it right. We shared a Veg birihyani (Rs100 of £1), a dal (Rs40 of 40p) and an aloo (Rs40 of 40p). Total bill £1.80. Can’t argue with that.
Now the reason Indian’s are not farting and shitting all over the place like we do after curry night is they exercise portion control, novel idea. The curry dishes are about the size of a small fist and then they have a rice or dosa (rice bread/cake) on the side. We were so impressed with Tina’s we went back the next 3 nights before attempting to cook that epic failure you’ve already heard of.
Tina’s being closed on a Sunday we decided to try ‘Amina’ on Kaladisa Rd. This one coming off as the preferred when compared to ‘Rasa Dhatu’, an organic place with vegan dishes we were keen on. Up on the second floor, you’re met by a waiter who kindly asks you to remove your shoes and waves you in. This place will also only fit about 30 heads. Only difference being you are seated on the floor (a bit like Japanese). Amina’s serves organic food ‘a la carte’ and made to order. That being the case I naturally assumed it would be slightly more expensive than Tina’s so we proceeded to order a soup to start each and then a platter of dosa to share. The platter came with 5 dosa. Well that’s what we were told. When the waiter brought out the dosa. He brought 5 plates of different dosas. Each with two or four dosa and two bowls of curry or yoghurt mint. In total 12 dosa, 5 small bowls of curry and 5 bowls of yoghurt mint. What was I just saying about gas? Oh well. The total bill here came to £3.35p. We couldn’t move and we couldn’t finish what we ordered either. Guess it’s not more expensive.
All this eating out is great but starting to long for some simple meals cooked at home to avoid the refined carbs and high GI breads and white rice grains. So it may now be time to re-attempt to nuke a dinner. See figure (See Fig 1.0.1) for the re-attempt. Fatboy’s is the double portion.
 
Fig 1.0.1 (Brown rice and Large yellow split peas/Dal seasoned with masala spices, served with cucumber, and bell peppers – Cooking time 30Min)

Breakfasts

We’ve been eating the complimentary breakfast at Urban Oasis each day. They put on a different local dish each day which I have (spice millet, ground chick peas, dosa’s and various soups) and Sherren has been eating fresh fruit and oats. I don’t eat the oats because they don’t have jumbo oats here and yes, size does matter.
When we move in a few weeks and have to get our own breakfast, I’ll probably just suck it up and have the little oats and fruit tooL.
Interesting note: We were in the supermarket today and found ‘Curry Flavour Oat’. Do I or don’t I?

Fruit and Vegetables

On our first full day here, we were wondering through the streets of Gokulam just trying to find our bearings and see where everything was. Once we’d had our fill of the heat and dust of the day and constantly sounding horns, we headed back to the room. Seeing across the street a couple of other yoga travellers purchasing some fruit from a stall. We decided we’d stock the fridge back home with a few of these local delights. Not wanting to be overcharged and not being skilled in the art of the barter system, Sherren asked the other two what they’d just paid for their spoils and was met with 2 answers. “I got these 4 tomatoes for Rs4” (4p or 1p each) and the other answered “Oh it doesn’t matter, I don’t care if they overcharge me, it’s nothing to us”. Well she is obviously not travelling on a budget for 2 years or she is extremely wealthy. So being no better off for information we threw caution into the wind and decided to buy a small bunch of mini bananas and a small water melon parting with the enormous sum of Rs80 or 80p. Now that doesn’t seem like a lot but two days later we were in the supermarket and saw the very same fruits at half the price. I found this to be a bit of a shame as I’d rather put the money in the hands of small private stall owners than large supermarket conglomerates but if they are going to charge double, I’m not.
Note: India doesn’t have the advanced logistics we do and the fruit and vegetables you find in the supermarket come from similar if not the same local source as the market stall traders.

Prices for comparison:
Water Melon: Rs10 or 10p per kilo
Musk Melon: 40p each
Mini bananas: 12 for 40p
Nagpur Mandarin: 8 for 60p
Apple come in at about the same as the do in England. They’re not very nice either. Imported and cool stored.
Tomatoes: About 1p each
Bell Peppers: 2 for 40p
Cucumber: 5 for 40p
Mushrooms: 40p for 300g


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