In A Round About Way - Taurmarunui/Tongariro/Whanganui

Today we completed the alpine crossing past lakes craters and over the highest point of red crater at 1750m. We had amazing weather with a clear view of mount Taranaki over the top of distant cloud some 137km away.

It was a wise choice doing the TA SOBO for this section as we were pretty much alone until reaching the blue lake. And then we struck the TB hikers (tourist bus). There must have been 2000 of them up there. Welcome to New Zealand's great walks. But then once we passed Red Crater we were alone again. 

We are staying tonight at Mangatepopo hut in the tent, testing our gear in our first night of expected temperatures of -2.

I'd seriously recommend everyone stay a night at this hut in the hope they get to meet Boyd the DOC ranger. An awesome, down to earth and extremely knowledgeable bloke you could talk to for hours. 

We've met two groups of TA walkers who have done the 42 traverse and Cokers track, their descriptions do not appeal so we think we will have a bit more of a walk around here over the next couple of days then off to canoe the Wanganui.

It was pretty warm in the tent but left before the dew point lifted and had to pack away a wet tent.

Today is overcast but the wind and rain is holding out.

We were warned about the worn track to come but were surprised at how easy it was to walk and despite the weather deteriorating were treated to some beautiful views of Ruapehu.

Having decided against the 42 Traverse we opted to head for Whakapapaiti Hut. It's a lovely walk up to this hut and we even ran into Jack Hikes on the way (with matching shoes and poles) and had a good chat about all our TA experiences and what add on trails we may do.

Now we are at Whakapapaiti with another 5 walkers, a party of 4 dairy famers, one of whom was a guide on the Whanganui river - how's that for luck, he recommends Taumarunui to Pipiriki in 5 days. and a very quiet male reading his book. (At last nights hut there was a master butcher).

We have very wet boots from a water crossing we have to do again in the morning so little point trying to get them dry tonight.

My face is really sun burnt from yesterday's snow and cloud burn today. Must remember to bust out the hat. Skin like a roast chicken.

It's amazing what a night of light rain does to a stream up here. Last night we crossed the Whakapapaiti at mid shin and this morning it was at the top of my thighs. A pretty wet walk out to Mangahuia campsite, then we hit SH47 in a bid to get a hitch to Turangi. 2 hours later and a whole lotta cars and empty tour vans, we were resigned to the fact we may have to spend the night on the side of the road and walk the whole 40 something km's to Turangi. Just then Chris who owns a motel in Turangi stopped on his way back from fly fishing. It's always the locals.

Back in Taumarunui now. Setting off down the river in the morning for 5 days. The weather report has gone from a week of good weather to a week of shitty rain. Oh well, at least we got it good crossing the Tongariro. 

Day one of the Whanganui, we had a short briefing and some sketches of where to aim for entering a rapid... The point of the V. Then onto the water... We arrived at our campsite at 4pm. The Rapids were kind we stayed afloat plenty of shouts of 'left a bit' 'right' no profanities though and some beautiful scenery, from high rock to bush and of course fields of sheep. As for the V not sure we got it right all that often.  We stopped once at Lavender Farm, quintessentially English garden of rows of Lavender with a cafe and garden tables, smelt amazing had a fresh orange and a beer (well we are on holiday after all). I have offered to have the back seat, which is the steering seat tomorrow... Don't think I will be allowed ;-).

Glen - pretty sure Sherren and I are not compatible canoeists and would much rather have had a kayak. They're much less cumbersome and leave you free to explore more.

Got stung by a bee when putting up the tent. First one in 31 years. They still hurt! Then copped about 15 mozzie bites overnight. Nothing on those far north mozzies though. 

Nice camp at Poukaria. DOC need to get their shit sorted though as the water pump is 'ucked. After all this is a great walk camp and we're paying a decent fee for the privilege.

There are also possums that are in no way weary of humans. I'd say they are being fed by other campers. They're so cute aren't they???

But again being a great walk, it would be nice to see a few more native birds if the possums weren't around to eat their eggs.

Some prick pissed all over the toilet seat this morning. Only 9 of us here last night. Some folks are just plain 'unts!

Got sunk today. Got the right v into the rapids but was slightly off line and got pinned to a rock. Handled it well but after 2 minutes of effort and not getting off, decided it would be easier to get out, let it swamp and then get to shore. No drama, we bailed out and were on our merry way. 

At Whakahoro now. Rubbish left strewn, toothpaste spit left through the sinks, benches covered in food waste. There's a pig here which probably encourages leaving rubbish and it's way too friendly when you're trying to cook. People are (gr)'unts!!!

Some of these great walk facilities are  pretty shitty. Prefer the back country facilities. They have a more courteous clientele too! Although they have got wheelchair access to the hut and long-drop here. Progressive!

Sherren, we saw lots of ducks and a bird of prey ... Not sure what maybe a hawk.

The sinking was thankfully slow and almost planned, or we would still be against the rock now! we were told that upside down your canoe is easier to get ashore however ours wouldn't turn over just went under.  I sat in it and paddled with water to my armpits. It drizzled most of the rest of the way to camp so we would have got wet regardless.

Thankfully all the stuff in the barrels stayed dry.

We should be in a tent tonight, but there's a bunkhouse and its empty at the moment so we are chancing our arm hopefully we won't get turfed out, clothes hanging to dry.

New Zealand weather sucks!

Absolutely teeming down today so rowed like there's no tomorrow and turned an 8 hour, 37km row into a 5 hour slog. Stopped at all the camps on the way to use facilities before getting to John Coull Camp. The camps out here are lacking for the money you pay. Would rather they up the fees and have a decent shelter put in.  John Coull camp had 56 people at it last night and there's 1 table and shelter to share. The hut is ok but fits 24 in the bunkroom and again has only 1 table, 1 sink and 4 gas rings at $32 per night per person. We upgraded as the camp is so wet we'd rather not.

The rapids were fun today. Not as rough as the last two days but had some narrow fast ones where you get quite close to the rocks. The river is starting to rise now so will be interesting to see what tomorrow brings.

Sherren, early this morning although drizzling the water was like a mill pond and the rocks and reflections beautiful, saw lots of kingfishers today. My first "woohoo" going through a rapid today, it was fast and narrow skimming the cliffs.  My stomach muscles hurt this morning and my arms ached as soon as I started to paddle, I think my technique has improved and I should have the hang of it by day 5!

Glen has been eaten alive by mozzies and I've remained relatively unscathed. Although my legs are once again covered in bruises, from wedging myself in.

With all the rain we had, the river rose at least 2 meters over night. We had to reposition our canoes twice to ensure they didn't end up in the Whanganui estuary.

We set off after an early rise but slow start, figuring it would be a pretty quick and easy row. Well it was quick, measuring 8kph at a standstill and 15kph while paddling on the gps. However it was no easy feat, as the eddies were now pretty huge and were throwing us around with all that extra water making hard work of steering.

As the day passed logs got bigger and we even saw a couple of dead goats flowing down stream.

We stopped at the bridge to nowhere track and had a chat for a bit with a German couple and in the space of 30 minutes saw the river rise another half meter.

Not long after that we pulled into Tieke Kainga and were greeted by Petuere, an interesting and knowledgeable Maori chap, well versed in history and mythology.

In the space of a couple more hours we noticed the river had risen a couple more meters and washed away the opposite neighbours canoes and was even threatening their quad. Will be interesting to see what the river levels actually get to on www.horizon.co.nz. 

Sherren, when I shut my eyes I'm going up and down on the waves!

The mighty Whanganui dropped a couple of meters over night and after bidding farewell to Petuere we set off looking for the 50/50 rapid. The trip was pretty swift again and we came upon some big waves in the rapids but alas there was too much water flowing and the 50/50 was not to be (this is the success rate).

When we got into Pipiriki, there was a jet boat heading out to save the gear of a couple of other TA hikers who spilled and lost their laden canoe.

All in all. Fantastic service from Taumarunui Canoe Hire. Would recommend this outfit over all others.

Sherren loved the whole experience and although I still enjoyed myself, I still prefer the bush a whole lot more.

Not sure where to go next? Will check the dreaded weather and decide.

Back in Taurmarunui camping ground tonight. Really welcoming hosts and a great place to hang out. Have run into Paul from Russell Forrest again and a few other TA hikers. A few stories of the tough terrain floating about but thus far everyone we've met has skipped the Waitomo to Te Kuiti section. Will be keen to hear from anyone else out there who has done that section recently.

Decided to divert to Taranaki tomorrow. Will aim to walk around the mountain before Christmas and will then hit the Tararuas in the new year at some point.

Leaving Las Trail!

Trail Notes Day 41- Given up numbering or just plane given up.

Pirongia traverse, started out pretty easy, then as you get closer to the summit it gets progressively more difficult. TA mud made a return and we could only laugh.

Very well maintained track and Pahautea Hut is pretty damn posh. 2 huts, more water tanks than you can count, loads of tent sites, dog boxes and a helipad. It's Saturday night and about 18 + people up here.

A pretty cold night at 1000 meters but comfortable enough. Too cold to yoga so we set out after breakfast and got a bit of a shock as the track to Hihikiwi was Boardwalk all the way. They must be expecting a royal visit.

After that we got the pole stealing, boot sucking, balls deep mud back. I'm beginning to enjoy it now.

4hrs later we hit the roads and covered another 20km before setting up a wild camp literally at the beginning of Mahoe forest track, all we have to do in the morning is take our stove off the stile and we are away. Spaghetti, broccoli, mushrooms, peas in tomato herb sauce, a trail favourite.

The trail notes for this section and leading up to it are a load of bollocks. So trust the maps and your gps. Although I've been noticing position errors of about 300 meters at times.

Last night was a bit of a wet night, so packed it and headed off by 8am again. Some really muddy bogs but easy to get around on this section. Then came into some really nice bush before hitting farmland again. Saw a few goats in the bush. They bolt when spooked but you get pretty damn close before they notice you. Hunters would have a field day. Heard a couple of shots fired first thing too, so take care and be visible.

After another road section we headed back into the bush. A newish unformed section which then comes out to one hell of a steep descent to Mangatiti stream, it follows a fence line and the batons and posts were invaluable hand holds. You climb again on the 'wrong' side of a wire fence (easy side the other side) pushing through Manuka as high as your head. After another decent you meet the stream, it's in a beautiful lush little valley so we decided to camp here the night. And if you turn right instead of left as per the trail immediately after crossing the stream, travel a few hundred meters and you'll find a little cabin. Think this is an old shepherds hut and there are signs of life a few days old.

Sleeping... We both drop off okay and have a solid few hours (when we are knackered) then start to regularly wake from about 2am to change position as a body part goes numb. It was a warm night in the cabin, there were a few scratching sounds but I don't think we had visitors. Leaving it cleaner and tidier than we found it, we set off up the ridge on what resembles a wild goat trail. I even managed to sneak up to within 15 feet of a couple we came across. Some of this section is overgrown with scrub and gorse and requires some bush bashing to get through.

Farmland, bush, then out onto an old clay access track with some steep lung busting never ending hill climbs, leading to metal roads, then sealed roads and wallah, Waitomo.

There is only one stream crossing which was quite fast but only mid calf high, one to watch though after rain.

Mostly today we have been singing

'The Only Way Is Up'

'I'm stuck in mud' (aka - I'm stuck on you - Lionel Richie)

'You'll never walk alone'

And

'Slip sliding away'

We had drizzle most the day which progressively got heavier. Now it's pissing down like you wouldn't believe. So we decided over a pint at the pub to stay at the BBH instead of camp. It's a really nice hostel just a km or so out of town. Only down side is the bed is too soft (much prefer the bush floor in a tent)

We both have stiff knees and tight muscles but plan on yoga in the morning.

Weather (in this order): hail, baking sun, driving rain, baking sun, driving rain, 90km/h gusts, baking sun, driving rain, hail.

Track from Waitomo to Te Kuiti: this track is an abomination. Once you head over the farmland the markers lead you to a sheer cliff drop (if you try to get through the overgrown track, which I did). We turned here and went to a nearby farmhouse to ask how to get through. They said this track has never been maintained despite over growing and slips. After getting some directional advice, we set off to find some very steep sections. Both Sherren and I had some bad falls that could have resulted in serious injury had luck not been on our side. Sherren fell on a descent only being stopped by a Punga in the mid section and I slipped on an ascent only stopping by pushing my leg through a barbed wire fence and almost dislocating my shoulder on the base of a gorse stump. The adrenaline was pretty intense and I must admit I wanted to seriously assault someone at the TA Trust at this point.

Up Up and Away!

After that we hit the track overgrown with gorse, so I spent a little time here cutting some of it back to prevent getting scratched to bits (I'm carrying a machete as so many parts are overgrown). Coming out into farmland again the markers sent us to another sheer drop, which we eventually found was the opposite direction to where we were supposed to go. Blah blah blah, so on an so forth, we made it to Te Kuiti, stopped at the Super Liquor and bought a bottle of Jameson.

Now relaxing at Casara Mesa Backpackers. Cleaned up, dried and chilled out ready for the next section.

Be warned the markers here are unreliable, as is the gpx. Note parts are accurate and parts inaccurate. Use you common sense and take your time.

Thought for the day from Glen: Pirongia mud is my favourite thus far. It's black and rich in nutrients. I want to bathe in it.

Sherren: I laugh, Glen goes into a murderous rage.

Now just to clarify things. I didn't ever expect this trail to be easy and even relish a challenge. But some parts are very dangerous and in the absence of notes you only rely on common sense and judgement. However, when you are supplied notes you tend to trust them and they are not always correct. In future I'll be assuming all the notes and sometimes the markers are flawed to some degree and will rely on our own senses, topo maps and gps location to navigate.

I can appreciate the magnitude of the task the TA Trust has but this trail is gaining international interest at a rapid rate and too many negative experiences could damage this trails lasting image.

Getting off the soap box now. Time to head into the bush for 3 or 4 days and check out the huts.

There's a funk emanating from our shoes that could resurrect James Brown! Ow! Got our socks cooking dry on top of the little fire place at the Bog Inn Hut. It took a long time to get it going as all the wood here is wet and as always the good twigs near the hut are all gone.

The Bog Inn

The Timber Trail is very well maintained and an easy walk. Heading up to the summit has a lot of boardwalks but coming down its fallen into disrepair and the trail has all but washed away.

It's a shame to see this as it took time, effort and money to build once. Surely maintaining a trail is easier and cheaper than completely rebuilding it (if that ever happens).

This Once Had Steps

We missed out the road section from Te Kuiti today. Instead of hitching we opted to pay for a lift with 'Artdoc' based in Benneydale. At $30pp we thought it was well worth it and it guaranteed we got a good early start in the bush. Maurice from France runs this place with his Dutch wife. He is a real nice guy and has learnt loads about the history in the area.

There's a school trip up at Bog Inn too so the place is not as quiet as we thought it would be. Especially after being told by a hunter this morning that it was a rat infested shit hole and even they won't stay. Let's see how it is tonight after dark. There is certainly a lot of droppings about.

Well the rats did come after dark but they spent most the night hustling about outside. So with that level of separation we had a fairly peaceful night.

Bidding farewell to the Canadian cyclist Barbara and the students at the hut we set off to Waihaha Hut. It was raining hard and we were among the clouds pretty much the whole day. Within a few hours we were soaked through and spent a total of 9 hours marching to our next camp. It was just too cold to stop and for most of it I couldn't feel my fingers. On top of that there are about a hundred fallen trees to navigate. Making it another gruelling day.

We've had a bit of a chat now we're warm and dry in the hut and think that maybe The TA is not for us. We don't expect it to be easy as I've said before but with the sum total of 4 or 5 fine days to date and the state of many of the tracks, it firstly isn't enjoyable and secondly but most importantly we just can't fit any yoga in due to cold and wet conditions and the time restraints we have of getting to the next camp. It just doesn't fit in any way shape or form what we had planned! The level of yoga practice that I was really over the moon with has just gone down the shitter. It will take months of a daily practice to get that back. 

Sherren - the best plans have to be flexible, there are definitely bits of the trail I would like to do, that will be so much nicer when we can check the weather forecast and just have a chilled out walk in the sunshine, with time to stop and appreciate the surroundings. Yesterday I spent most of the day shouting expletives which is quite unlike me, and today remarked 'I'd  rather be at work' something amiss I think!  Anyway we are smuggled up in the rather smart hut for the night and tomorrow will start out two day journey out-a-here.

Waihaha to Hauhungaroa: This track is in pretty good condition. Poorly marked in places with some fallen trees but enjoyable with some challenging climbs. We had a cold, wet, windy, sunny mix today. But dry enough to take a 10 minute break every hour to make sure we didn't exhaust ourselves and made the hut in 6 hours. Notes say 10 and sign says 7. Just for the record I find the notes very inconsistent for timings which is frustrating.

A bit fed up with that thorny creeping vine tearing up my waterproofs and skin. And that feeling you get when the muddy earth is pulling you down, sucking at your boots and poles. It's the stuff of folklore.

Not made a decision on what we're doing yet. Will chill a couple of days in Taumarunui and read up on the coming trails and see.

For me: I've never felt a sense of achievement upon completing anything in my life. It's the actual task where my satisfaction comes from. After that I just shrug my shoulders, humph and move to the next thing. So if the road ain't fun, don't travel it.

Not many people seem to stay at Hauhungaroa going by the hut book. Really tidy modern hut. Found the fire ready to light with Joe and Graeme of Dunedin doing the TA last in the book. So thanks to them if it was them and I'll pass on the favour.

They got coal here too. Got the fire so hot I've had to open the windows and door. 

Great views out here too. GPS says 1009 meters. Windy, cold and changeable out. What will tomorrow bring?

Sherren 

It's amazing how arriving at a hut with a great view, even from the long drop! A roaring fire, a full belly can make the world a better place. Today seemed more positive, a lot of the walk is along the river which is beautiful and some crossings meaning our feet were wet all day, but there's coal here so it looks like boots will dry for the morning - yipee

I've had a quick look at the notes, for the rest of the North Island Glen really wants to do the 42 Traverse and I the Whanganui, we both think the alpine crossing with its lava and volcanoes sounds good too (all in fine weather)... We need to spend some time planning how we can do those given that yesterday we were ready to jack this whole TA thing in!

Bog Inn

Versus

Hauhungaroa

Today is day 50 and we're at the 1048km mark in Taumarunui and quite possibly the last day of through hiking for us. It seems a shame as we're a third the way and in a matter of weeks we would be done with the North Island.

But 50 days with less than 5 fine days. I'd be more than happy with a 50/50 split but 10% is just not good enough. We have been failed by the New Zealand weather.

Up Till Here My Only Dry Bit Was My Socks.

After a cracking evening blasting out some sounds through the iPod and mini speaker (surprisingly loud) while baking in the heat of the coal heated hut. We rose to visibility of 20 meters, almost freezing temperatures and pissing, driving rain. After walking for around 30 minutes we were soaked through again. Seems $600 dollar Gore Tex is no match for the NZ bush. You can't beat a black sack with 3 holes cut in it! No shit! 

The sign said 2 hours to the road and the notes 2 and a half. Again we hauled ass without stopping to prevent getting hypothermia and it took us nearly 4 hours through muddy, overgrown track to get to the road. At one point I had to get my machete out and cut through blackberry again. At this point I noticed I'd lost the use of my fingers and could only grasp things. I had to release my pole clips with my teeth to stow them away while I hacked at the bush.

Once out of the bush at the road the wind picked up and we were colder still. Fortunately at this point the rain eased so I thought it best to get my gloves on. I'd resisted up until now so those wouldn't be wet through too. After all you need something dry to change into. Problem was I couldn't unclip my bag. So again I employed my teeth and then again to tear open the plastic bag I had them in.

Upon seeing the sign on the gate offering a taxi to Taumarunui, we called and arranged a pick up. Met them 20 minutes down the road and are now drinking beers and eating junk food in a warm cabin.

I've been trying to convince myself to keep going but we've checked the forecast for the 42 Traverse and Tongarero Alpine Crossing and we're expecting gale force winds, rain and a maximum of 1°c at 1200 meters. 

Doesn't really seem like fun to me.

It's not good bye to tramping nz, just goodbye to the through hike from a to  b, when the dry season starts we will be doing the good bits, Whanganui, 42nd and Tongarero as well as the best of the South Island walks and Stewart Island, the TA route has also missed some great bits on the way down so we might end up back tracking too... 

Need to pick up Yoga again and find a way to fit this in..

Met some fab people along the way and hopefully will catch up with them again.

Stay tuned!

Glen, Barbara and Sherren in Taumarunui

Recovery and Beyond........

So it seems Sherren has strained her Medial Collateral Ligament in her left knee. In part to having weak quadriceps and no doubt in part to the tough terrain experienced along the way. Remedy is rest and anti-inflammatories, plus quad strengthening exercises. Recovery is estimated between 1 to 8 weeks. Hopefully it's sooner rather than later but we won't continue till she is 100%. And to be fair, I have also had some discomfort in my ankles at the Superior Extensor Retinaculum ligaments. I blame this on the metal road walking (being my least favourite and hardest on my body), so I am too enjoying the rest.

We just spent the weekend down in Turangi/Taupo and crossed paths with the trail in a few places on the way. Already longing to get back on it we felt it necessary to stop at National Park pub for a beer and can confirm we'll be stopping again as we pass through on foot in the weeks to come. The Speights triple hop being my favourite.

It's beautiful country down there and so open and different than the under canopy bush walking experienced thus far.

Back north again and so as to not miss out too much, we spent the day walking Auckland and taking in the sites from Devonport to One Tree Hill without packs (certainly easier). I grew up here, so although nothing new for me it was certainly nice to revisit and some lovely views of Auckland for Sherren.

(N)one Tree Hill. 

Devonport. 

Rangitoto from North Head. 

Sherren at North Head. 

The City of Sails. 

The Hunua Ranges

Cossey track has a slip, so I headed into the Hunua Ranges up Moumoukai Rd. There was a slip at Opua Rd too and the gate was locked. So walking round the corner saw the entry to the Wairoa loop track via the swing bridge track and entered there. Starting out with a pulse raising climb, in part due to the beers I've been consuming while Sherren recovers.

The camps up here are easy to find as you walk through one of them (the notes made it sound difficult due to the detail they provide). But unless you're through hiking there's no need to camp as you'll get through in a day.

About the last km before the Mangatawhiri track there were 16 possums decomposing in various places. Not sure if they had been shot and left or if they had been poisoned. There is a 1080 poison drop being voted through the council that will close the ranges for 3 months next summer but rangers may be hand dropping in the area.

Into the Mangatawhiri track there's a few signs of hunters (empty amo boxes left) and pigs (rooting) so take care and wear your hi-viz if you have one.  There was also signs of the lone Holy Cow that we followed through the Raetea and Morepork sections. Has anyone else seen these Holy Cow tracks or am I loosing it?

In keeping with the TA experience the Hunuas offered me a bit of rain, a few fallen trees and although not muddy, a little slippery in the wet. On a whole though, an easy section and I only swore twice compared to the relentless obscenity I exposed Sherren to in Raetea and Herekino.

Wairoa Dam

Brilliant facilities here for cleaning your boots. 

The North Islands Infamous Supple Jack (no chance of straying off trail here!)

At this point the trail detours from the GPS and map files. Just follow the markers and you eventually marry up again. 

Glad this bridge was here. The river was about chest deep this day. 

The next day I took Sherren to Hunua Falls and we did the 3 hour loop to Cossey’s dam and back. It’s pretty much a footpath on this section and easy going. Sherren’s knee was fine with a brace on, so looking good for that speedy recovery.

Edited myself out for not smiling. 

Part of the trail still closed due to slip. 

Hmmm. Even Christians Vandalise. The way, the truth and the........,,

Not quite trusting the knee yet. 

On the technology side. I picked up an iPhone charger in the city the other day and the battery power and stability seems to have been restored. Pretty happy with that and can only admit if you buy cheap crap to save a buck, you’ll just end up replacing it with the real deal in the end. Buy a product that can guarantee it’s efficacy and save yourself the headache.